The City at the Tip of Africa

The Cape Town Waterfront with Table Mountain in the background

The past couple days have been a whirlwind of activities. I have been exploring my new city and getting to know my co-workers and roommates! 

 Friday, June 14, we took a Metrorail downtown to explore. It was only about a 15 minute walk to the Steenberg Metrorail Station from our houses where we took a metrorail trail directly into downtown Cape Town. The metrorail followed the tracks through about 20 stops as it led north into the downtown area of the city. The landscape we passed was uninspiring… mostly gated and faced off one-story houses or factories or fields. It wasn’t until we were directly in the city center that the buildings enclosed together in between narrow busy streets.

When we exited our train, we emerged into the main Cape Town station. People crisscrossed paths every which way. This was the first time I had been downtown or seen Cape Town up close. It is very westernized and, to me, is reminiscent of a smaller San Francisco. The city lies right up against the waterfront of the Southern Atlantic Ocean and sprawls out onto the hills right up to the majestic flat-topped Table Mountain, one of the seven natural wonders of the world. It truly is the very tip of Africa and I found it absolutely enchanting.

Outside the station, we appeared into the midst of the skyscrapers and taller buildings of the city. Fortunately, there was very clearly marked signage detailing the directions of the central attractions of the city. We followed signs towards the V&A Waterfront, a section of the city right up against the harbor that has been erected on a foundation that was constructed above the ocean. We reached the waterfront where boats were docked in the harbor and workers were repairing large ships. We continued onto Victoria Wharf, a charming area with food and craft markets, restaurants, bars, hotels, a ferris wheel, an aquarium, a couple museums, and wide walking paths. You could look back on the city and see the top of Table Mountain and the peak of Lion’s Head creating a magnificent backdrop to the bright city. We then walked back to the bustling Long Street lined with shops and restaurants and parks and elaborate buildings. At moments, I felt like I was in Europe.

Robben Island

On June 15, we spent the entire day in the city again. We took the metrorail downtown again for a 11 AM tour of Robben Island. We boarded a ferry from the waterfront to the island across Table Bay.  At one point on the boat ride I’m almost positive I saw a humpback whale! The ride was only about 30 minutes before we researched the shores of the small island and docked along a concrete path where masses of cormorants were nesting and some seals sunning. The island was completely flat and covered in dry shrubs, much like the Galapagos.

            We were ushered towards a row of buses where we loaded on to be taken on a driving town of the island. A South African man with a thankfully understandable accent took a microphone at the front and began to give us history of Robben Island as we started to drive. The Island was initially used as an area to quarantine contaminated people, especially those with leprosy. We passed ancient graveyards filled with buried lepers. Then, the island transitioned into a prison for many years where prisoners were made to work hard laborious days. Nelson Mandela spent 18 years in this prison as did many of the current political leaders of South Africa. Many of the dissenters of apartheid were imprisoned in this place, as well. It was in use up until 1996 when it was declared a UN World Heritage Site.

The Prison

View of Table Mountain from the Island

Ilana, Lucy, Grace

The bus drove slowly through the roads past abandoned buildings and quarries where prisoners were forced to work. We saw the town and prison buildings before being dropped off at the high security prison area where a former prisoner took us on a brief tour. Utterly strange to have someone who was once captive here to be acting as a tour guide… He had been convicted for intimidation and denial of apartheid policies. He told us about the identification cards that all races except white people had to carry with them at all times (the slang for these booklets was “Stupid Books”). He told us about how the guards gave food rations out differently to prisoners based upon their race, some got more some got less. Then, he walked us through the prison cells, pointing out Mandela’s cell explicitly.

Once the tour was finished, we walked back toward the ferry dock. We passed a penguin colony sign along the way and glimpsed one African penguin squatting amongst the shrubs. Apparently, this is one of the largest nesting areas for the species. The ferry ride back felt like a roller coaster, for the wave swells had increased in amplitude.

Nelson Mandela's Cell

It was past 2 PM when we arrived back at the wharf and we walked to Nobel Square and the markets. Nobel Square is so named for the first four Nobel Laureates of South Africa: Desmond Tutu, Nkosi Albert Luthuli, FW de Klerk, and Nelson Mandela. Larger than life statues of those four individuals stand upon a raised platform in a row. Nearby, is an enclosed food market with rows of exhilarating food stations. Everything looked delectable and enticing. There were brightly decorated pastries, fish, foreign food, African food… 

The Nobel Laureates

Around 4 PM we decided to go to the Two Ocean Aquarium on the waterfront. The aquarium was excellent and primarily featured organisms and sea life from the Atlantic and Indian Oceans that border the Cape Peninsula. There were seals, penguins, ragged-tooth sharks, frogs, kelp forests, loggerhead turtles, touch tanks, and all types of fish. Many of the things I never knew even existed. It was such an exhilarating experience and we stayed until the aquarium closed its doors.

Ilana and a Spider Crab

By that time, it was past sunset. We decided to stay on the waterfront for a lovely dinner at a place nearby the tall ferris wheel called Ferryman’s Tavern. We sat at a wooden outdoor table beneath heaters. There were large screen TV’s above our head playing the rugby games, which we have quickly learned is the biggest sport here in South Africa. A live band was playing on a stage nearby. It was lovely spending time enjoying the company of my fellow field assistants in my new city.

When I got home that evening, my housemate Krysten was having a get together with some of her friends and invited me over. We sat around on the couches playing games, eating cake, and laughing. Such an adventure this place is turning out to be!